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I was attempting to navigate the bar crowd near the front door—feeling like a disoriented tuna swimming through a school of cocktail-crazed sharks—when the irony hit me and I almost burst out laughing: Pax Americana, the restaurant’s name, is Latin for, on a strictly literal level, “American peace.” Peace!!! Really?!! Maybe I was addled from the jostling, but the contradiction struck me as hilarious. I mean, “peaceful” is the last word anybody would use to describe this jam-packed new restaurant that opened near Houston’s Museum District in August. With its 160 seats pretty much occupied every night, energy fills the air like an electrical hum. Even when star co-chef Plinio Sandalio left abruptly after less than two months, it didn’t seem to diminish the crowds or…
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