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Changing the Channel

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It’s dawn at the site of Santa Anna’s capture, atop the Washburn Tunnel in Pasadena. Two fishermen are angling at the water’s edge, joined by a great blue heron, neck coiled and ready to strike. The greenish-brown water laps at the grassy shore, thanks to the tugboat Dixie Renegade’s wake as it nudges a chemical barge upstream, where tank farms dot the landscape. Gulls laugh and wheel in the sun-pinked clouds, only some of which are natural; the man-made variety are billowing forth from the thick jungle of smokestacks that line the Houston Ship Channel, the lifeblood of the world’s second-largest petrochemical complex.In this Janus-faced city, it is here, on the east side, where you find Houston’s fearsomely unlovely visage. It’s one that many west-siders…

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